Santiago is where I first learned about the Mapuche culture in Chile. The Mapuche are a group of native Americans in south-central Chile and south-western Argentina. During the colonial times, Mapuche remained independent until the late 19th century. Although conflicts between non-indigenous Chilean and Mapuche have continued over time, Mapuche culture now has become part of the modern Chilean culture.
Walking around Santiago, I found many traces of the Mapuche culture.
On the way climbing up to the Santa Lucia Hill, two Chemamull (wooden people) were standing by the parking lot. Chemamull are carved wooden totems that represent the stylized body and head of a human being. These sculptures are about 2 meters tall (6 ft 7 in). The one with a mushroom hat is a male. The other one with a bowl hat is a female. Later in the Palacio de La Moneda Culture Center, I learned that Chemamull were used a manner similar to headstones. Chemamull helped the deceased’s soul reunite with its ancestors. This sculpture stood by the deceased during the funeral and was then erected over the grave.
I also saw a statue of a Mapuche warrior on top of a big rock on the Santa Lucia Hill.
In the Plaza de Armas, there were colorful flags on a municipal building. The flag in the middle represented the flag of the Mapuche people.
Palacio de La Moneda Culture Center (Centro Cultural Palacio de La Moneda in Spanish) was the place I learned most of about the Mapuche culture. There is a permanent exhibit of Mapuche in the center.
In the center, I learned about Mapuche’s traditional patterns reflecting their believes. These patterns can be found on fabric, silverwork, or sculptures.
A couple Chemamull were displayed here as well and I learned that Chemamull were one of the important funeral elements of traditional Mapuche culture.
When walking around Santiago, don’t forget to look around and you will be delighted to find traces of Mapuche culture everywhere!
Santa Lucia Hill
Plaza de Armas
Palacio de La Moneda Culture Center
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